The No-B.S. Truth About PMU Longevity: Lessons from 32 Years Behind the Needle

When you’ve spent over three decades tattooing brows, eyeliner, and lips, you see the PMU industry change over and over again. Pigments evolve, machines improve, but one thing never changes, the artist’s responsibility to understand the why behind their work.

That’s what Robin Hayes Velez and Teryn Darling dive deep into in Episode #115 of the Tatter-a-Fact® Podcast, a masterclass in honesty, fundamentals, and long-term success in permanent makeup.

Robin brings 32 years of hands-on experience, decades of client results, and an unfiltered take on what artists really need to hear if they want to last in this industry.

The Pigment Truth — Iron Oxides vs. Organics in Permanent Makeup

Why Pigment Knowledge Defines a True Professional

One of the biggest mistakes artists make is thinking all pigments perform the same.
In reality, iron oxides and organic/carbon-based pigments behave completely differently in the skin.

• Iron oxides are mineral-based pigments — slightly heavier, softer in color, and tend to heal faster with less saturation. They fade predictably and are ideal for natural, low-maintenance looks.

• Organics and carbon pigments, on the other hand, are lighter molecularly, providing rich, bold color payoff, perfect for eyeliner tattooing and clients who want definition and longevity.

But with that power comes responsibility: carbon blacks migrate easily if overworked, tattooed too deep, or used on the wrong skin type.

As Robin put it:

“There’s no bad pigment — only the wrong pigment in the wrong hands.”

Matching Pigment Type to Skin Type

• Dry to normal skin: can handle both iron oxide and organic pigments well.

• Oily skin: often struggles with pigment retention. In this case, pre-procedure skin prep is everything.
  Using an oil-control solution like OMG D’oil™ before the procedure dramatically improves healed results.

By balancing the skin’s surface and calming inflammation, pigments sit cleaner and last longer.

Needle Mastery — Why Every Artist Needs to Understand Groupings

No Needle Is “One Size Fits All”

Many artists stick to a single needle because it feels comfortable, but that’s limiting.
Different skin textures, ages, and pigment types require unique diameters, tapers, and configurations.

• Round liners provide precision and control.

• Shaders or mags distribute pigment more evenly and are perfect for soft shading, powder brows, or smoky eyeliner.

• Long tapers implant pigment slower for detail work; short tapers implant faster for dense saturation.

When you truly understand needles, you stop guessing and start controlling the result.

Education That Builds Confidence

This is exactly what Teryn’s course The Needle & The Prick covers, everything from how needles are constructed to how they perform at various depths and speeds. It’s not just a class; it’s a roadmap for mastering healed results.

The Myth of “No Bleeding” or “No Swelling” in PMU

What’s Normal, What’s Not

In a world obsessed with “perfect day-of photos,” many new artists believe that visible trauma equals poor work. But here’s the truth:
A small amount of pinpoint bleeding or swelling is completely normal, it shows that the body’s natural healing response is working.

Why This Myth Hurts Artists

When PMU artists try too hard to create zero-trauma procedures, they often under-implant pigment, leading to poor color retention and patchy healed results.
Robin emphasized that real artists show honest healed results, not filtered, immediate photos.

Building a Career, Not a Trend

Longevity Comes from Ethics and Education

The PMU industry has never been more competitive, and social media can make artists feel like they have to chase every trend.
Robin’s advice?

“Trends fade. Fundamentals don’t.”

The artists who last 10, 20, even 30+ years are those who continuously learn, respect the craft, and stay honest with their clients.

Products That Support Professional Results

Every tool you use affects your healed results, from pigment quality to aftercare. That’s why we hand-select everything we carry at Girlz Ink.

Shop Pro Artist Favorites:

• 🖤 OMG Pigments — high-retention, EU REACH compliant pigments
  

• 🩶 Li-FT® Removal Products — safe saline removal

• ⚙️ Machines & Needles — precision tools, tested by artists

Listen, Learn & Level Up

🎧 Tatter-a-Fact® Episode #115 — The No-B.S. Truth About PMU with Robin Hayes Velez
Available on YouTube, Spotify, and Apple Podcasts.