Stop the Drip: The Real Talk Guide to PMU Topical Anesthetics

Stop the Drip: The Real Talk Guide to PMU Topical Anesthetics

Kathryn Boehme

PMU gets real, raw, and unapologetic, just how Girlz Ink likes it.

If you’ve ever watched your numbing cream turn into a runaway river down your client’s face (hi, temples 👋), this one’s for you. Today we’re breaking down why PMU anesthetics melt, how to prevent migration and stinging, what’s normal vs. not with pupil dilation, and the safe, pro‑level products and protocols we trust at Girlz Ink.

At the end, you’ll find a quick‑grab checklist, product + course links, and a PMU anesthetics FAQ you can copy/paste into your studio SOPs.

Watch/Listen: Tatter‑a‑Fact Podcast Episode #10

 

🔗 Listen on your favorite podcast app

Why Anesthetics Melt (and How to Stop the Slip)

Top culprits behind that “melty, drippy” mess:

  • Warm or oily skin:

    • Think naturally warm clients, hormonal shifts, hot flashes.

  • Room climate:

    • Hot rooms, humid days, client just came in from 100°+ heat.

  • Formula issues:

    • Overly watery or oily carriers, poor‑quality bases.

  • Over‑application:

    • Globs = guaranteed migration.

The Problems Melted Numbing Creates

  • Mapping smears:

    • pencils, markers, string won’t grab.

  • Hand Slippage and Loss of Control:

    • you can’t maintain a clean stretch if the temples/forehead are slick.

  • Inconsistent Numbing Effects:

    • patchy comfort → patchy performance.

  • Risk of Product Migration into Eyes:

    • migration → stinging/burning if it gets into the eyeball.

Pro fixes (simple and effective):

  • Apply moderately.

    • Thin, even films numb better than blobs.

  • Blot early.

    • If you see pooling, lightly blot, don’t strip it all off.

  • Clean like a pro.

    • Fully remove oily residues before mapping and between steps.

  • Choose stable formulas.

    • Use melt‑resistant anesthetics designed for the area you’re tattooing (more on our go‑to’s below).

  • Barrier trick:

    • For brows only, if needed, place a dry cotton “gutter” at the hairline/temples to catch any run‑off. Remove before you tattoo.

Pupil Dilation: What’s Normal vs. Not (Read This Twice if You Do Eyeliner)

Rare but real: Mild pupil dilation can occasionally happen with some topical anesthetics. Most artists never see it or see it once in thousands of eyeliners. When it does happen, here’s your field guide:

Mild/Temporary (usually resolves in 5–15 minutes)

  • Pupils slightly larger, equal in size

  • Mild light sensitivity, slight blur, no pain

  • Action: Stay calm, dim lights, sterile eyewash flush, cool compress, wait and reassess. Document. You may continue only if both you and the client feel comfortable and symptoms fully resolve.

Must‑Stop / Serious

  • Pupils very large or unequal in size

  • Extreme light sensitivity, prolonged blur/difficulty focusing, headache, nausea, or pain

  • Symptoms persist past ~30–60 minutes

  • Action: Stop the procedure. Keep lights low, flush with sterile eyewash, cool compress. Arrange a ride (no driving). Advise urgent medical evaluation if not improving within the hour or if anything worsens. Document thoroughly and follow up.

Big risk factors you can control:

  • Contacts in during eyeliner (don’t do it, anesthetic can trap under the lens → corneal injury).

  • Over‑application/occlusion on lids (see next section).

  • Using products not intended for eyes or sketchy sources.

Stop Occluding the Eye (Full Stop)

We love efficiency. We love comfort. But occluding the eyelids with plastic to “boost numbing” is a hard no. The skin here is thin, vascular, extra‑absorbent and sits right over the eyeball. Occlusion supercharges absorption, increases migration, and spikes the risk of stinging, corneal irritation/abrasion, and dramatic pupil issues.

  • Occlude brows or lips if that’s your process—fine.

  • Never occlude upper/lower lids. It’s not “extra care”; it’s extra risk.

Products We Trust (and How We Use Them)

Pre-Numb (Primary) for Eyeliner

  • Microcaine® (by Pain Stoppers): Made for eyes, melt‑resistant, balanced, stays put. Our #1 for eyeliner pre-numb.

Secondary (After First Pass)

  • TAG 45® or Feel Better Now® (Pain Stoppers): Apply sparingly with a rolled‑off, barely‑damp cotton tip. Let sit briefly; re‑apply only if needed for comfort/bleeding control.

  • Ultra Duration® (Pain Stoppers): Great for brows/lips, but not for eyeliner (it says so on the bottle). Respect the label.

Sourcing matters

  • Buy from trusted PMU suppliers (like us) only. Avoid Amazon for anesthetics, counterfeits and tampered/expired stock are rampant, and “what’s on the label” may not be what’s inside.

Will Anesthetics Kill My Retention?

Short answer: Used properly—no.
The real killers: over‑saturation and leaving products on too long. That can rubberize skin, mask true tone, and change needle feedback. Follow the manufacturer’s timing. Use as‑needed, not on autopilot. If your client’s comfortable and not bleeding, don’t re‑apply just because.

Pro tip: Learn to read blanching. Blanched skin can fool your eye on saturation, adjust your read, not your depth.

Quick‑Grab Checklist for Safer, Cleaner PMU Numbing

  • ☐ Pre‑cleanse thoroughly; remove all oils before mapping

  • ☐ Thin, even application of premium; no globs

  • ☐ No occlusion on lids (ever)

  • ☐ Contacts out before eyeliner (back in after 3–5 days)

  • ☐ Wipe between steps to remove residue before mapping/working

  • ☐ Secondary: minimal amount, only if needed

  • ☐ Watch the eyes: size equality, light sensitivity, blur, pain

  • ☐ If in doubt, stop; flush, dim lights, cool compress, arrange pickup

  • ☐ Document & follow up with the client

  • ☐ Use eye‑safe products from reputable PMU suppliers only

Shop the Anesthetics We Mentioned

🛒 Girlz Ink Online Store: Shop Anesthetics
🎓 Girlz Ink Training Academy: All Courses

Level Up Your Skills (Related Courses)

FAQs: PMU Topical Anesthetics

Q: My brow numbing keeps sliding. What am I doing wrong?
A: Likely a combo of warm/oily skin + too much product + slick carrier. Switch to more stable formulas, apply a thin layer, blot early if you see pooling, and fully de‑oil before mapping.

Q: Can I occlude eyelids to speed up numbing for eyeliner?
A: No. Eyelid skin is thin and super absorbent; occlusion increases migration and raises risks (stinging, corneal irritation, pupil issues). Not worth the few minutes you “save.”

Q: How long should mild pupil dilation last?
A: If it happens at all, 5–15 minutes is typical for mild cases. Dim lights, flush, cool compress, reassess. If symptoms persist or worsen—stop and arrange medical evaluation.

Q: Do anesthetics ruin retention?
A: Not when used correctly. Overuse and over‑processing time can hurt retention. Use as‑needed, follow timing, and read blanching accurately.

Q: Can clients wear contact lenses for eyeliner procedures?
A: No. Have them remove lenses before you start. Reinsert after 72 hours–5 days per your protocol.

Q: Is it okay to mix anesthetic brands or add numbing to my pigment cap?
A: Never. Don’t mix anesthetics. Never implant anesthetic by adding it to pigment. Both are unsafe.

Q: Where should I buy anesthetics?
A: From reputable PMU suppliers only. Avoid Amazon to steer clear of counterfeits and tampered/expired stock.

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