PMU Unfiltered: The Truth About Pigments, Needles & Dark Lip Tattooing
Permanent Makeup Is Evolving, Are You Keeping Up?
The world of Permanent Makeup is advancing faster than ever with new pigment formulations, machine technologies, and skin prep techniques changing how we tattoo every day. But as the industry grows, so does misinformation.
In Tatter-a-fact Episode 117, Teryn Darling sat down with Carla Ricciardone of @sculptedstudios to bring you the unfiltered truth about what really matters: pigment science, needle mechanics, and skin behavior.
Their goal? To help artists understand the "why" behind every healed results and empower you to create better work, confidently and consistently.
Pigments 101: Iron Oxides vs. Organics vs. Hybrids
Why Pigment Composition Matters
Every PMU artist knows that pigment choice makes or breaks your healed results, but few understand the chemistry behind it.
🩷 Iron Oxides are heavier, with larger particles that implant softly for a more natural fade.
🩷 Organics are vibrant and bold, offering powerful color saturation but requiring lighter pressure and refined technique.
🩷 Hybrids combine both to balance opacity, longevity, and predictability.
Knowing how each performs in different skin types helps prevent gray, ashy, or overly warm healed results.
The Secret Role of Carriers
Beyond pigment colorants, carriers like glycerin, alcohol, or witch hazel influence how pigments flow and implant. A slow-drying, stable carrier allows smoother implantation and improved pigment retention, especially when paired with proper skin prep.
The Importance of Skin Prep for Oily Clients
For artists working on oily skin, you already know the struggle, slipping stretch, pigment floating, anesthetic not absorbing. That's why pre-procedure oil control has become a must in PMU.
Products like OMG® D’oil – Pre-Procedure Oil Control & Pigment Prep are designed to gently cleanse and balance the skin's surface, improving pigment grip and implantation. By removing excess sebum without stripping the skin, you'll see faster procedures and more even healed results.
Needles & Machine Control: Where Science Meets Skill
Carla and Teryn emphasize that needle choice and machine control are not "preferences", they're technical variables that directly affect pigment saturation and skin trauma.
Needle Configuration & Taper
🩷 Smaller groupings = precision and detail.
🩷 Larger groupings = faster coverage and higher saturation.
🩷 Long tapers implant softer ; short tapers implant stronger.
Machine Speed & Hand Movement
Each pigment's viscosity interacts differently with your machine. Artists must adapt hand speed, voltage, and stroke for each technique, whether performing powder brows, lips blush, or eyeliner.
The Science of Dark Lip Neutralization
When it comes to melanin-rich lips, education is everything. Neutralization is not about "lightening", it's about balancing undertones safely. Using the wrong pigment tone or too much opacity can trigger unwanted color shifts or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Carla reminds artists to focus on undertone analysis, gentle passes, and proper aftercare. The skin always tells you how much it can take, your job is to listen.
The Girlz Ink Commitment: Results That Heal Beautifully
At Girlz Ink, we believe that every tool you use should make your work easier, cleaner, and safer. Our team of artists and educators carefully curate pigments, solutions, and tools that support consistency in healed results.
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Final Thoughts: Technique+ Product = Power
Knowledge is only half the equation, the right products turn good technique into great results. As Teryn and Carla both say, "Science doesn't lie. Skin tells the truth."
Keep learning, keep evolving, and never stop investing in your craft.
→ Explore PMU products, pigments, and tools trusted by artists worldwide at GirlzInk.com